WELCOME

Congratulations on the purchase of your new Natural Chlorine Generator. Your purchase will minimize the efforts needed to maintain your pool and maximize your enjoyment for many years. Before installation or operation, please read these instructions carefully. This manual contains easy to follow step-by-step procedures to properly install and operate your system. A little time spent understanding your system and its parts will assure successful, trouble-free installation and usage. When working around your pool, please take care to avoid hazards such as electrical wires and chemicals. CAUTION! Safety comes first!

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

*The SCC-25 unit is designed to take care of a pool with up to 25,000 gallons of water in virtually all climates. In Northern climates (i.e. above the Mason/Dixon line), where the pool is only operational for 5 months out of the year, this system can take care of a pool with up to 30,000 gallons by increasing the circulation pump run time. Alternatively, the SCC-40 units may be used for such pools.

The system comes in three sections, the Control Box, Cell and Flow Sensor. They are manufactured from the latest corrosion resistant materials to give you years of trouble free use, and installing them in the most sheltered position from sun and water will protect them from extreme weather conditions for years to come.

Safety Measures

1. Only operate the system with an approved flow sensor.
2. See safety measures and warnings on page 2 of this manual.

Additional Materials Required

1. PVC solvent cement and priming fluid
2. Hacksaw or pipe cutters
3. Screwdrivers
4. Drill
5. Teflon Tape (a.k.a. Plumber's Tape)
6. WD-40
7. Silicone Sealant (NO NOT USE silicone glue or petroleum jelly).
8. Pipe adaptors (i.e. reducer couplings) if needed for systems with 1 1/2 inch plumbing.

Install the Cell

1. The Cell and Flow Sensor must be installed downstream from the filter and heating devices but before any tees in the return line. The Cell may be installed horizontally or vertically so long as the Cell is pointed in the direction of flow and is installed immediately after the enclosed Flow Sensor (see diagram above).
2. Approximately 15 inches (~380 mm) of available pipe length will be needed for horizontal installations of the Flow Sensor and Cell. Vertical installations can be made to take less space.
3. On the pipe where the cell will be installed, mark two lines 11 3/4 inches (300mm) apart and cut out using hacksaw or pipe cutters.
4. Unscrew and remove the barrel unions (i.e. barrel nuts and slip connections) from either end of the Cell. Thread one of the barrel nuts over the pipe and glue its slip connection to the cut pipe.

5. Hold up the Cell with the second union to gauge the proper distance before threading the second nut and gluing the second slip.
   
6. After the glue had sufficient drying time, place the Cell with the o-rings into the opening between the two ends of the pipe and tighten the unions making sure that the Cell is installed with the arrow pointing in the same direction as the flow (i.e. water should enter from the side with the blue cap).
   

Install the Flow Sensor

1. Install the Flow Sensor between the last piece of apparatus and the Cell. When possible, install on a horizontal pipe.
2. Mark two lines on the pipe 3 inches (~76 mm) apart and cut with a hacksaw or pipe cutters.
3. Clean and glue the "T" connector (included) to the pipe making sure that the threaded end with the sensor is on the topside of the pipe.
4. Be sure the arrow on the top of the Flow Sensor is pointing in the direction of flow, and that no glue touches the paddle inside the sensor as it may cause it to jam.
   

Mount the Control Box

(PSC-2/PSC-3/PSC-4 Control Box works with SCC-12, SCC-25, SCC-40 Cells)

1. The Control Box must be mounted vertically on a flat surface and a minimum of 5 ft (1.5m) horizontal distance (or more, if local codes require) from the pool/spa.
2. Locate a position for your Control Box within 10 ft (31/2 meters) of where the Cell will be installed and within 2 ft of the power supply to ensure enough wire is available.
3. Because the box acts as a heat sink dispersing heat from inside the box, do not block the four sides of the Control Box. Do Not mount the system inside a panel or tight enclosed area.
   

4. Secure the hanging rack on the wall using the enclosed screws and anchors. 1/4" (8mm) drill bit should be used for the anchor holes.

5. Hang the Control Box on the mounted hanging rack.

6. Hardwire the power cable to the time clock as indicated in the instructions below. *Check the label on the side of the Control Box for the proper voltage specification on your system (i.e. 120v or 240v).
7. Do not extend the cable leading to the cell. This decreases the system's efficiency and will void warranty coverage. Please contact the manufacturer for installations demanding a longer cell cable.

Wiring the Control Box to Standard Timer

1. Attach the green ground wire to the grounding lug or bar.
2. Connect the black Load wire from the chlorine generator to Load 1 of the time clock.
3. If wiring a 240 Volt generator, connect the third wire to Load 2 of the time clock. If wiring a 120 Volt generator, connect the third wire to the Neutral lug or bar on the timer (see label on the left side of the Control Box to confirm voltage).
4. Bonding is recommended and may be required by local code. The bonding lug is found on the bottom of the Control Box.

Wiring the Control Box to Automated Systems

The Natural Chlorine Generator can operate with virtually any automated control system as an auxiliary.

1. Attach the green ground wire to the grounding lug or bar.
2. Connect jumper wires from the Load side of the Circulation Pump Relay to the Line side of an Auxiliary Relay as depicted in the relevant diagram below (based on the voltage used by the pump and the chlorine generator) and in accordance with instructions of the automatic controller manufacturer.
3. Connect the Natural Chlorine Generator to the Load 1 & 2 connectors of the Auxiliary Relay to control the generator's operation.
4. Bonding is recommended and may be required by local code. The bonding lug is found on the bottom of the Control Box.
5. Set the chlorine generator to 100% power, and program the Aux Relay to run the chlorine generator as needed. (e.g. 100%, 50%, 25% of the time the pump is running).

240 Volt Circulation Pump With 240 Volt Chlorine Generator

120 Volt Circulation Pump With 120 Volt Chlorine Generator

240 Volt Circulation Pump With 120 Volt Chlorine Generator

120 Volt Circulation Pump With 240 Volt Chlorine Generator

A 240 Volt Chlorine Generator may NOT be connected to a system with a 120 Volt circulation pump.

Wiring the Cell

Connect the two black wires from the Control Box to the two metal studs on the sides of the Cell and tighten firmly with a screwdriver by hand. To avoid damage to the screws, DO NOT use a power screwdriver. Note these wires are interchangeable. Push the plastic terminal covers up to cover the terminal connection until they click into place. This will ensure a watertight connection.

Wiring the Flow Sensor

Find the two 18 AWG wires with the 1/4" Quick connect terminals from the Cell cable and push them on their respective connectors on the Flow Sensor. These wires are interchangeable.

STARTUP

BEFORE ADDING THE SALT

• Balance the chemicals. See the titled "Understanding the Chemistry" for recommended water balance. Also, add 1 quart of metal remover and 1 quart of non-copper based algaecide to the pool, according to the manufacturers instructions. This will ensure that the transition to the Natural Generator system will be quick and trouble-free.
• Measure existing salt in your pool. Years of liquid chlorine use may cause the salt reading to be higher due to residual salt.
• New Pools: Wait 30 days, or longer if specified by the pool builder, for plaster to cure before adding salt or operating the Natural Chlorine Generator.
• Biguanide Pools: If installing on a pool using Biguanide sanitizers, all Biguanides must be removed before system startup.

ADDING THE SALT

1. Determine how much salt is needed from the Salinity Demand Table on the following page. This table is based on a salt concentration of 3500 ppm (approximately 1/3 of 1%). More may be added for larger pools (e.g. 4000 ppm) and less for very small bodies of water.
2. Keep the pump on to circulate the water.
3. Distribute the determined amount of salt evenly around the pool. To avoid clogging the filter or damaging the Control Box and pump, do not add salt through the skimmer or surge tank. Brushing the bottom helps dissolve the salt.
4. The readout on the chlorine generator may fluctuate until the salt is fully dissolved.

Acceptable Types of Salt

GOOD	BAD - do NOT use
The best salt is an evaporated, granulated, food quality salt.	Iodized salt.
Water softener salt pellets may be used but will take longer to dissolve.	Salts with anti-caking agents of more than 1% (i.e. yellow prussiate of soda or sodium ferrocyanide) because they have iron and will yellow the fittings.
"99.9%" pure salt.	Rock salt because of the dirt mixed with the rock salt.
"Solar" salt.	Calcium chloride; it is not a salt. Use only sodium chloride.

SALINITY DEMAND TABLE (in lbs.)

• Locate the current salt concentration at the top of the chart (e.g. 1000ppm). Then locate the size of your pool on the left (e.g. 12,000 gallons). Run these figures down and across until they meet. That number is the number of pounds of salt required for your pool.

CALCULATING THE SIZE OF THE POOL

	Gallons (dimensions are in feet)	Liters (dimensions are in meters)
Rectangular	Length x Width x Average Depth x 7.5	Length x Width x Average Depth x 1000
Round	Diameter x Diameter x Average Depth x 5.9	Diameter x Diameter x Average Depth x 785
Oval	Length x Width x Average Depth x 6.7	Length x Width x Average Depth x 893

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

BACKGROUND

This product is an automatic Natural Chlorine Generator for pool and/or spa sanitation. It is the workhorse of chlorine generators. The system uses a very low concentration of salt, less than the concentration in a human teardrop, and converts it into free chlorine that kills algae and bacteria in your pool. After killing the algae and bacteria, the chlorine reverts back into sodium chloride. This process of purification continues, making the need to add extra sanitizing chemicals to your pool virtually unnecessary.

The level of necessary chlorine in the pool is affected by a number of factors such as sunlight, bather load, debris and water temperature, all of which increase sanitation and filtration demand.

Filtration

Proper filtration is critical for maintaining clean healthy water. Filtration increases clarity, and the Natural Chlorine Generator increases sanitation and oxidation. It is customarily required in the pool industry that all the water in the pool pass through the filter at least one and a half (1 1/2) times per day (~ 8 hours on most pools). During very heavy usage, the filter and chlorine generator may be run continuously.

Sanitation/Oxidation

The Natural Chlorine Generator has little effect on pH, total alkalinity, or stabilizer levels. These must still be monitored and adjusted to allow the system to have its greatest effect. If you use a good quality pool test kit and follow the simple instructions outlined in this manual, your Natural Chlorine Generator will help you maintain a sparkling clean, trouble-free pool for many years with minimal effort. See the section titled "Understanding the Chemistry" for more information.

BASIC OPERATION

The Natural Chlorine Generator produces a pure form of chlorine to sanitize and oxidize your pool water.

The chlorine residual needs to be maintained at 1-3 ppm. This may be tested using a standard kit or by your local pool store. To obtain the optimal residual build up of chlorine, the best time to run your filter is in the early morning and after 4:00 pm when there is less UV to destroy the chlorine produced, leaving chlorine in the pool to oxidize the unwanted foreign matter.

To generate more chlorine:

1. Turn the Control Knob to a higher setting as necessary, 10% to 100% chlorine production level. See "Power Meter" in the next section for more details.
2. Ensure sufficient run time (at least 8 hours / 1 1/2 turnovers).
3. Ensure salt level is correct and the Cell is clean (see "Salinity Indicator" in the next section).
4. Ensure proper water balance including pH and stabilizer levels (see "Understanding the Chemistry" for recommended levels).
5. Point pool jets down and to the side.

* Summer weather increases demands for chlorine.

To decrease chlorine production:

1. Turn the Control Knob to a lower setting, 10% to 100% chlorine production level. (See "Power Meter" in the next section)
2. Decrease run time as necessary.

Winterizing

Just like the pool plumbing, freezing may damage the system's Cell and Flow Sensor. If severe or extended periods of freezing temperatures are possible, drain all water from the pump, filter, and supply and return lines before any freezing conditions occur.

Spring Start-up

DO NOT turn on the system until the pool water chemistry has been brought to required levels. See "Startup" section for more information.

CONTROLS

Control Knob (1) - The Control Knob is used to adjust chlorine production and to turn the unit on or off. To increase chlorine production, turn the Control Knob up (clockwise). To decrease chlorine production, turn the Control Knob down (counterclockwise). To turn the unit off, turn the Control Knob down (counterclockwise) until it reaches its end position.

Power Meter (3) - The Power Meter lights indicate the system's chlorine output (i.e. 10% to 100% production rate). The higher lights indicate higher chlorine production.

A Solid Red Light (2) above the Power Meter (3) indicates that the salt level in the pool is on the high side. This does not harm the Natural Generator, but is provided as a cautionary notice to the user not to add more salt to the pool. Operation at very high levels (i.e. above about 5500ppm) is not recommended.

A Flashing Red Light (2) above the Power Meter (3) indicates that the salt level is exceedingly high (i.e. above about 7000ppm), and should be reduced immediately by draining a significant amount of pool water and refilling the pool. (Please check with your local pool professional prior to draining the pool)

Flow Light (5) - This red light should NOT be illuminated during normal operation. When first turning on the circulation pump, the red Flow Light (5) may turn on and off until the air is pushed out of the pump lines and sufficient water flow is achieved. This is normal and ensures that the generator automatically shuts off if the pump fails to prime or a blockage occurs. See troubleshooting section if the red Flow Light (5) remains on.

On/Off Light (4) - When the system is turned on and the pump is operating, the On/Off Light (4) will illuminate indicating that power is reaching the Control Box. The color of the On/Off Light (4) indicates the following:

• Solid Green - system is operational.
• Flashing Green - system is performing a "soft start"; light will turn solid green within 1 minute.
• Flashing Green - reversing polarity; light will turn solid green within 3 minutes.

Boost Button (6) - Press this button to automatically turn the system to full power for only 24 hours of actual operation (the Boost Button will flash red and the power meter will indicate 100%). After 24 hours of runtime (or pressing the Boost button again), the system will automatically revert to the power setting of the Control Knob (1). This feature is handy for temporarily increasing the sanitation level in the pool before and/or after a pool party, heavy rains etc.

Reading Salinity

Maintenance / Cleaning

Maintaining your Natural Generator requires minimal work but will maximize the performance and life of the system.

Cell Maintenance

Our clear Cell allows for easy regular inspections for calcium build up. Visually check the Cell periodically, and clean it as necessary (1 to 2 times per year). Advanced self-cleaning technologies, including reverse polarization and IBT™ help the cell stay cleaner than other self-cleaning cells, but bi-biannual cleanings are required.

Cell Cleaning

Cleaning With Optional Cleaning Cap:

1. Remove the cell from the line by undoing the barrel unions from the cell ends. There is no need to remove the wire connections when using the cleaning cap.
2. Remove the black o-rings on the ends of the Cell.
3. Attach the Cell Cleaning Cap to one end of cell.
4. Pour into Cell, either undiluted white distilled vinegar, or a solution of diluted muriatic acid (10 parts water to 1 part muriatic acid).
5. Wait for foaming to stop (5-10 minutes when using muriatic acid, vinegar takes longer).
6. If muriatic acid was used, safely dispose of it by pouring it into your pool.
7. Rinse cell with water hose.
8. Put the O-ring back in place and re-install the Cell in the line.
9. Reconnect the electrical wires, being sure to tighten the screws on the electrical wires firmly.

Cleaning Without Optional Cleaning Cap:

1. Remove the cell from the line by undoing the electrical connections from the Cell and the barrel unions from the cell ends.
2. Remove the black o-rings on the ends of the Cell.
3. Soak entire cell either in undiluted white distilled vinegar or in a solution of diluted muriatic acid (10 parts water to 1 part muriatic acid).
4. Wait for foaming to stop (5-10 minutes when using muriatic acid; vinegar takes longer)
5. If muriatic acid was used, safely dispose of it by pouring it into your pool.
6. Rinse cell with water hose.
7. Put the O-ring back in place and re-install the Cell in the line.
8. Reconnect the electrical wires, being sure to tighten the screws on the electrical wires firmly.

Optional

1. Lubricating the o-rings with a rubber lubricant (e.g. silicone) helps improve the seal of the fittings, but be sure not to use silicone glue, petroleum jelly (such as Vaseline), or other agents that could deteriorate the o-rings.
2. Smear the two electrical connections on the outside of the cell with electrical lubricant.

UNDERSTANDING THE CHEMISTRY

Below is a table showing the recommended balance levels followed by a more detailed explanation of the factors affecting water chemistry. Maintaining these levels will prevent corrosion and scaling and will ensure maximum enjoyment of the pool. You should test your water periodically. If the water chemistry needs adjustment, your authorized dealer or most pool stores can supply you with the appropriate chemicals and procedures. We recommend you either take a copy of the Water Balance Table to the pool store or notify the pool store that you are using a salt chlorine generator.

FACTORS	IDEAL LEVELS
Salt	3000 to 4000 ppm
Free Chlorine	1 to 3 ppm
PH	7.2 to 7.6
Total Alkalinity	110 to 180 ppm (Depending on the Saturation Index)
Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid)	60-80 ppm
Nitrates	0 ppm
Metals	0 ppm
Phosphates	0 ppb, or as low as possible
Calcium Hardness	Determine level for individual pool finish
Saturation Index	-0.3 to 0.3 (0 is ideal)

Salt is the power source of the Natural Chlorine Generator. To ensure maximum benefits with the use of the system, the ideal salt level is 4000 ppm (parts per million). A low concentration of salt can hinder the generator's effectiveness. A concentration of salt above 5500 ppm may cause corrosion damage to the pool fixtures. See the Adding Salt section for more information.

Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) are different from the salt level of the pool, although TDS levels rise by adding salt to pool water. This does not harm the pool water chemistry or clarity, but the pool water professional that is testing for TDS must be aware that salt has been added for the chlorine generator system. The pool professional doing the TDS test will get the accurate TDS level by subtracting the salinity level.

Free Chlorine v. Combined Chlorine: The unpleasant smells and side effects often associated with chlorine are actually caused by combined chlorine (i.e. chloramines). Combined chlorine is a chlorine molecule that attacked a noxious particle in the water but has been unable to destroy that noxious particle. This chlorine particle remains attached to the noxious particle until one of the two is burned off; hence the term "combined chlorine" (a.k.a. chloramines). To burn off the noxious particle and free up the chlorine again, pool owners have had to shock the pool periodically, but with the Natural Chlorine Generator, the noxious particles are burned off within the generator's Cell and the combined chlorine is continuously converted back to free chlorine.

The free chlorine level in the pool should be maintained at 1 to 3 ppm. This level of free chlorine is comfortable to swim in with no unpleasant smells, and it maintains proper sanitizing power.

PH is a measure of how acidic or basic a solution is. A scale of 0 to 14 is used to measure pH. Pure water has a pH of 7 (neutral), acid solutions have a pH of less than 7, and basic (alkali) solutions have a pH of more than 7. The recommended range is 7.2 to 7.6; chlorine is more effective within this range and the water is most comfortable for bathers. Water with very high pH levels can cause scaling in the pool, on the walls and in pipes. Low pH levels cause the water to be aggressive to the pool walls, equipment, and bathers.

To lower pH, add muriatic acid or dry acid, and to raise pH, add soda ash (sodium carbonate). Be sure to read and follow the respective manufacturer's instructions.

Total Alkalinity mitigates changes in pH. It is often referred to as the "big brother of pH." Keeping proper levels of total alkalinity will help reduce unwanted fluctuations in pH levels. Total alkalinity is also used to offset high or low levels of calcium hardness (see Saturation Index below). Add muriatic acid or dry acid to lower total alkalinity and add baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to raise total alkalinity. Be sure to read and follow the respective manufacturer's instructions.

Stabilizer (cyanuric acid) is necessary in most outdoor pools to maintain appropriate levels of chlorine. Chlorine stabilizer helps give an appropriate residual chlorine reading of the pool water. Without stabilizer, UV radiation from the sun destroys most chlorine within 2 hours, but excessive amounts of stabilizer can decrease the effectiveness of chlorine. Chlorine stabilizer should be maintained at 40 ppm to offset the harmful effect of the sun while maintaining the effectiveness of the chlorine.

Nitrates and Phosphates, generally associated with fertilizer thrown on nearby grass, can put very high demands on chlorine; most often nitrates and phosphates will bring the chlorine level down to zero (0). You can have your water tested for nitrates and phosphates by the local pool professional. No nitrates or phosphates should be in your pool. To reduce phosphate levels, use a phosphate remover from your local pool professional. To reduce Nitrate levels, the pool must be partially or fully drained. (Please check with your local pool professional prior to draining the pool)

Metals (certain metals) can cause loss of chlorine and can stain your pool. If a water test reveals the presence of metals, refer to your local pool professional for recommended methods of removal.

New Pool Water in recently filled or newly refinished pools may contain undesirable matter. The ability of the Natural Chlorine Generator to purify your pool could be hindered by this matter so it is best to balance the pool chemicals first.

Calcium Hardness, like pH and alkalinity, affects the water's tendency to be aggressive or scale forming. Lower levels of calcium hardness improve the chlorine generator's performance and provide softer silkier water for the swimmers.

Saturation Index determines whether the pool water is balanced, aggressive, or scale forming by comprehensively taking into account all the relevant factors, including pH level, alkalinity level, calcium hardness, and temperature. These factors should be tested periodically then plugged into the worksheet on the following page to verify the proper balance of the pool and make adjustments as necessary.